Shoulders for climbers: mobility, stability and control

The shoulder is a remarkable joint. It moves through a bigger range than almost any other joint in the body, and climbing uses all of it: reaching overhead, pulling in from wide gastons, pressing into mantles and holding the body still on steep ground. That range comes at a price. The shoulder relies heavily on muscles, not bony structure, for its stability, which is why shoulder control is worth training deliberately.

This post is general information. If you have shoulder pain, see a doctor or physiotherapist for advice that fits you.

How the shoulder works, simply

Think of the shoulder as two parts working together:

• The ball and socket (the glenohumeral joint), where the upper arm meets the shoulder blade. The rotator cuff muscles keep the ball centred in a shallow socket.
• The shoulder blade (scapula), which slides and rotates on the ribcage. It positions the socket so the arm can move well.

Good shoulder function depends on both. A strong rotator cuff on a shoulder blade that does not move well is like a good engine on a wobbly mount.

Mobility: enough range, in the right places

Climbers often lose range in a few predictable places. Lots of pulling can leave the chest and front of the shoulder tight, and the upper back stiff. Common mobility goals include:

• Full overhead reach without arching the lower back.
• Comfortable rotation of the arm, especially outward rotation.
• An upper back that can extend, so the arms can get overhead without strain.

Useful exercises include thoracic extensions over a foam roller, wall slides, doorway chest stretches and gentle hanging from a bar with relaxed shoulders. Hanging can be useful, but build up slowly and stop if it is painful.

Stability: control at the end of range

Mobility without control can be a problem. The aim is to own the range you have, especially at the ends where climbing moves happen.

Good stability work for climbers includes:

• Scapular pull-ups: hang from a bar and lift the body a few centimetres by drawing the shoulder blades down and back, without bending the elbows.
• Scapular push-ups: in a plank, let the shoulder blades come together, then push them apart.
• External rotation with a band: elbow at the side, rotate the forearm outward slowly.
• Turkish get-ups or overhead carries: holding a light weight overhead while moving teaches the shoulder to stay centred.

Move slowly, control the return and keep the load light at first. These exercises are about quality, not effort.

Strength: the shoulder needs to push too

Climbing builds pulling strength. Pushing and overhead strength often lag behind. Push-ups, dips (if comfortable), overhead presses and landmine presses help keep the shoulder working in all directions. For an honest discussion of whether this prevents injury, see Antagonist training: what it is and what it isn't.

Shoulder habits on the wall

• Engage before you pull. Set the shoulder by drawing the blade slightly down and back before a hard move, rather than hanging passively at the end of range on every hold.
• Avoid hanging loose on hard dynamic catches. Catching a far hold with a fully relaxed shoulder puts a lot of stress on the joint.
• Warm up the shoulder properly. Arm circles and band work before steep climbing help. See Training safely: warm-ups that actually prepare you.
• Respect pain. Pain that lingers, catches, or wakes you at night is a reason to see a professional, not to push through.

A mobile shoulder lets you reach. A controlled shoulder lets you stay there.

Try this

• Add two or three shoulder exercises to the start of your next climbing session, as part of your warm-up.
• Once a week, include one pushing exercise in a strength session.
• Coaches can build a short shoulder routine from the exercise library and attach it to planned sessions, so athletes see the sets and targets when they log.
• Use the notes field when logging a session to record any shoulder niggles. Patterns are easier to spot when they are written down.