Competition climbing: formats, preparation and tapering

Competition climbing has grown enormously, from local club festivals to international events. Whether you are a youth climber at your first regional comp or an adult entering a national series, understanding the format and preparing well makes a huge difference to how the day feels.

The three disciplines

International competition, organised by the IFSC and mirrored by many national federations, uses three disciplines. Exact rules, scoring and timings change from season to season and vary between events, so always read the current rules for your competition. In general terms:

Boulder

• Climbers attempt a set of short problems, usually with a fixed time per problem and rest periods in between.
• Scoring rewards reaching the top and intermediate zones, with fewer attempts ranked better.
• Demands: power, finger strength, coordination, quick problem-solving, managing many attempts.

Lead

• Climbers attempt a longer roped route, usually onsight after a short group observation period.
• The score is based on the highest hold reached or controlled, so every move counts.
• Demands: power endurance, efficient movement, route reading, composure when pumped.

Speed

• Climbers race on a standardised route that is the same everywhere, so it can be practised.
• Demands: explosive power, precise rehearsed movement, reaction speed.

Some events combine disciplines, and youth competitions often use simplified or adapted formats.

Preparing across the season

Competition preparation follows the same periodisation logic as any season (see planning a season around one main event), with a few specifics:

• Boulder athletes often spend more time on strength, fingers and power blocks, plus lots of varied setting styles: slab, coordination moves, compression.
• Lead athletes give more weight to power endurance, aerobic capacity and onsight practice on unfamiliar routes.
• Speed athletes train explosive strength and practise the standard route to the point of automation.

If you have several competitions, block periodisation as described by Issurin can help create several peaks, while smaller events serve as training.

Rehearsing the format

Physical fitness is only part of it. Practise the competition itself:

• Timed rounds: set a timer for each problem and enforce rest, just like the event.
• Onsight discipline: climb routes you have never seen, with only a short observation.
• Isolation and warm-up: practise warming up in a small space with limited holds.
• Variety: climb at different gyms and on different setting styles.

Tapering for a competition

In the final one to two weeks, most athletes:

• Reduce volume noticeably while keeping some short, high-quality efforts.
• Avoid new exercises or big strength tests.
• Prioritise sleep, food and hydration. See hydration for climbers and sleep for climbers.
• Look after skin, filing and moisturising rather than shredding it in the last sessions.

How long a taper should be varies between athletes, and evidence specific to climbing is limited. Keep notes after each competition so you learn what works for you.

Train the qualities the format demands, rehearse the format itself, and arrive fresh rather than fit-but-tired.

Competition day

• Arrive early, check in, and find out when isolation closes.
• Use a warm-up you have rehearsed, building gradually to a few hard moves.
• Eat and drink small amounts regularly.
• After each problem or route, reset quickly. One fall does not decide your day.

The mental side deserves its own article: mental preparation for competitions.

In Train Climb

• Coaches can add competitions as calendar events with reminders, and build a season plan with a performance phase and taper leading into them.
• Log the competition itself as a session with honest effort and notes about what went well.
• Record results and key problems in the climbing journal, and discuss them with your coach in messages.