Science ·
Why tracking your training matters
Memory is a poor training log. Simple, consistent tracking helps climbers and coaches see progress, manage load and catch problems early. Here is what is worth recording, and why.
3 min read
Blog · Category
Training science for climbers
The ideas behind modern training, explained for climbers: effort (RPE) and session load, the acute:chronic workload ratio, monotony and strain, and the models of periodisation. We cite the research, and we are honest about what it can and cannot tell you.
Science ·
What is RPE, and why do coaches trust a number you make up?
Rating of perceived exertion sounds too simple to be useful. Here is why a single honest number from 1 to 10 tells your coach more than you might expect.
3 min read
Science ·
Session-RPE: turning effort into training load
Multiply how hard a session felt by how long it lasted and you get a simple, surprisingly useful measure of training load. Here is how it works for climbers.
3 min read
Science ·
ACWR explained: acute and chronic workload for climbers
The acute:chronic workload ratio compares this week with what you are used to. Here is what it means, how Train Climb calculates it and how to read the zones.
3 min read
Science ·
What the acute:chronic ratio can and can't tell you
The acute:chronic workload ratio is popular but debated. Here is a balanced look at the criticisms and why Train Climb treats it as one signal among several.
3 min read
Science · · Members
Monotony and strain: why the same week every week can hurt
Training hard every day at the same level leaves no room to recover. Foster's ideas of monotony and strain explain why variety in your week matters.
3 min read